In Leon and well rested...

Have been in Leon two days now and I am feeling so much better.   Stayed at the Benedictine monastery run by the nuns who do a great job with the  help of many volunteers from all over the world.  No pillows or blankets here but it is so warm now blankets are not necessary but no pillow was a bit uncomfortable.  There was a lovely pilgrim blessing from the nuns that night and a lovely service in the church....I find these occasions very moving.


Leon is a great city...I love it...in fact I love the Spanish culture very much.  The restaurants, cafes and bars abound here and the atmosphere is very relaxed and carefree.  There is very little traffic in the centre of Spanish cities as the streets are so narrow.  Yesterday Gizzla and I became tourists for the second time after Burgos and toured all the historical sites.  I must research my Spanish history a bit more...other than the Spanish Inquisition I know very little but it is rich in its history and beautiful buildings, cathedrals and castles.

Gizzla and I shared our last meal together with a very pleasant Austrian man from the alberque who unfortunately had the bad experience of having his boots stolen.  I cant imagine why anyone would want to steal  someone else's boots...they are so personal.  Must have been a very poor pilgrim I think... He has had some very bad blisters and sore feet but walking nearly 30 kms a day is hardly surprising...

So this morning Gizzla and I made a tearful farewell.....she will complete her pilgrimage to Santiago and hopes to see Finisterre probably by bus and complete her journey.  I had a very sincere invitation to visit her in Berlin sometime....we shall see. 

Today I get the bus to Bilbao (six hours drive)...it will be nice to watch the scenery go by and rest.

Tomorrow I plan to visit the Gugenheim? Museum as my flight back to UK is not till 10.30 pm.

So adios amigos, farewell my friends...the journey we have travelled has come to an end......I have enjoyed so much sharing it with you and thank you so much for you prayers and support........May we meet again another time to finish the Camino to Santiago de Compostella.......

Mansilla to about 7 kms before Leon 11 kms

Had a good stay at Mansilla at the municiapal alberque.....had the best sleep in days.  The hospitalero there is somewhat of an expert on blisters so Gizzla and I along with another German had our blisters inspected.  I was concerned that mine may have become infected but they were OK.  Wish they felt OK but still quite tender.

Since we had time to spare we decided to walk to the town nearest to Leon about 11 kms.  It proved to be very tiring...our feet have had enough.  It is recommended that you get the bus from Mansilla into Leon as the route is mainly alongside the busy route into the city.  I would encourage this view though many die hard pilgrims were up very early like 5.30 am to walk into the city.  We have met pilgrims today who have walked over 30 kms.....I shudder!!

There were beautiful fields of wild flowers along the way which gave some inspiration to the walk in the hot sun. 

The alberque here is OK with about 12 beds....we had a pleasant meal and now I am ready (again) for my bed.  We are hoping to get a bus of the remaining journey into Leon.

The sun is very hot now and there is much sense in getting an early start if you are going to walk.

I caught up with the young Australina guy in Mansilla who I met way back....he was pleased to see me again...a familiar face that speaks English I think.  He said he had found the journey very hard which was quite consoling to me, in fact there have been several younger people who have said the same.  I suppose it is the difficulty of the terrain that puts us to the test and sharpens us up and hopefully reshapes us. 

When I look back and reflect on my photos I find it hard to believe that I have walked where I have walked.

BERCIANOS DEL REAL CAMINO TO MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS 7 KMS

As you can see we didnt make it very far today....My feet were not in good shape and I was feeling quite weak...maybe something to do with a bad nights sleep.  However, our stay at the municipal alberque though quite quaint and rustic turned out to be one of those Camino moments.  The hostel is run by the local church and the priest welcomed us all at the evening meal prepared by the volunteers.  It was served up at 8 pm so we pilgrims were ready to eat the table legs we were so ravenous. 

WE had a very tasty mixed salad for an apetizer followed by the most delicious lentil broth with sausage and potatoes.  It was served out of the biggest soup pot I have ever seen and it took two people to carry it in.  It was placed ceremoniously in the middle of the dining room and suddenly there were about six soup ladles and six volunteers seving out the soup.  We had wine and bread to go w ith it.

Afterwards we had to wash up outside in the laudry tubs.  For some reason I had had a spurt of energy earlier in the day and scrubbed out the sinks.  Lily, the one and only Dutch lady there, who was drying up the dishes, shouted at me....its good thing you cleaned out the tubs eh!!  It was great fun everyone pitching in to clean up.

We are now in Mansilla.  We walked 7 kms then got a bus....this was the second success bus connection.  I wouldnt be very optimistic about catching buses on the Meseta.....there was never a one when I needed it....tourist bus apart. 

I will have a couple of days in Leon and take in the history and culture of t he city before heading back to Bilbao on Sunday....I am starting to feel a bit sad at t he prospect of leaving this all behind......

Currently in BERCIANOS del REAL CAMINO

I have lost a few days and with little time on a pay internet cant really catch up....hopefully later I can fill in the gaps.

The last few days have been very hard but there is joy in finding a bed for the night and a place to rest my head and FEET.  We have walked long roads without any rest point apart from the side of the road.  Gizzla is unhappy about sitting on the cold gravel road....personally I couldnt care less.  Today I am feeling stronger for the first time in many days though a cough is still hanging around. 

We walked through Moratinos and I remembered that Rebecca of the Santiago Forum lived here so I said to Gizzla I would like to stop and say hallo....not really expecting anyone to be home, called The Peaceable Kingdom.  Not only were Rebecca and Paddy there they invited us to stay the night and we enjoyed their warm hospitality and lovely food and a quiet place to rest our heads. 

Today we walked 20 kms...it was a marathon fete for us both.....even Gizzla started to complain about sore feet....usually it is just me.  My poor left toes look like they have leprosy with compeed stuck on every toe except the big one which has escaped blisters so far.  Gizzla now has two "flusters" ...blisters...and is very unhappy with them...

There have been about three memorial crosses along the way since  I started and today there was the third one....A Perigrino (Pilgrim) of Santiago died there in 1998.  Tears stream down my face...I  have no idea why I am crying....but I let the tears flow.  Gizzla says Oooh! he was from Germany and touches my arm with understanding....we continue our walk to the alberque about 2 kms to go....we walk in silence and forget about our sore feet.....someones son, father, brother, lover, husband or friend.  It is very sobering.

The sun is getting  quite hot now.  But today we started early at 7.00 a.m.....By 9.30 we had walked 10 kms to Sahagun and were very pleased with ourselves but the next 10 kms were much harder.

It is quite comforting in a selfish sort of way to notice the other pilgrims hobbling around.  I have seen some corker blisters which make mine seem quite tame.  It is hard walking in the hot sun.  About two days ago after walking about 17kms and I couldn't take another step I saw a church tower not far off (always a sign of hope).

I said to a Frenchman who we had met further back (who had already walked 30 kms) if he thought the alberque was there...he said: No that is the church and the cemetery...I convulse into a cough splutter....He said laughing...It is for you..Oui!  The alberque is just over the hill ...and so it was....not a step too soon.


The heart of the Camino is meeting the people and sharing experiences even when you don't understand each others language....there is a universal language of groans and laughter.  The Camino is a global village....with everyone looking out for each other.....Oh that the political world were the same....

My mind often flashes back to the lovely cool surf that I enjoyed so much in January and February in Australia as the sweat drips down my back and neck as I walk along....

In two days I should be in Leon and wondering what to do as my bus is booked for Sunday....maybe I will keep walking!!!! Oh no!!.......

I am currently in a rustic alberque in above town.....The alberque for tonight is run by the local  church and they are preparing a shared meal....I think there are at least 60 pilgrims to feed so it will  be interesting....

FROMISTA TO CORRION DEL LOS CONDES 19 KMS

Had a reasonable stay at the municipal alberque but Gizzla and i were unimpressed with the E2,50 breakfast.  I am feeling alot better but not too strong.  A few stops along the way to attend to a persistent blister.  It seems to be a long walk but at least is very flat.  I think we have got over the really hard part of the Meseta.  The flowers along the way today have been spectacular.  Gizzla stops every 5  minutes to take photos...even a snail on a flower leaf...I crack  up laughing.

I am exhausted when we reach the alberque here...I am aching everywhere.  We are staying at the Santa Maria alberque run by the nuns...it is 'perfecto'...males amd females separate and no bunks.....we girls here love the no male atmosphere for a change. It is peaceful and quiet.

I have been thinking about lessons learned in a practical sense and since my time on the Camino in only one week left I have given some thought to what I would do differently.  I would bring over pants instead of a poncho...it was useless in the wind and rain just when i really needed something to keep me warm and dry on the Pyrenees.  Fortunately it has not rained too much since so has not been any more of a problem.  It is ggod to have a good first aid kit with plenty of  Compeed which you can buy in UK and here but quite expensive I found but certainly helpful.  Only of benefit before you get the blister though.  I have aquired three blisters to date, twohave healed and one is persistant.  They can be painful little blighters * I mean blisters*.  My right foot has remained blister free...maybe something to do with the walking pole *who knows*....this key board is a bit strange..

To date I  have not used any insect repellant but that probably will change as the weather warms up.  I noticed today a few little clouds of little black flies buzzing around.

My 750 ml water bottle which has travelled with me from St Jean Pied de Pont has become quite battered and has difficulty standing upright....I am sympathetic.  However it may make it to the end like its owner....I  hope.

Tomorrow we walk 17 kms straihgt with no stop off points.....need lots of water and food for the journey......

Burgos to Fromista

We have walked 20 kms today.  I have lost track of the days...one blurs into the next....there have been so many adventures...I have been quite sick.  Somehow made it to Hontanos...a little village in the middle of nowhere that looks like it is falling down.  It swings from serious deterioration on the one hand to serious restoration on the other...it seems the town has just woken up out of siesta and decided to restore the village.  Gizzla and I were prepared to say farewell here as I couldnt go on...I was too sick and exhausted.  The hospitalero organised for me to see a doctor and we tearfully said our farewells.  I was feeling quite glum after that sitting on my bed looking at my bits and pieces....5 minutes later I hear Gizzla on the stairwell....Yohanna....hear her voice say....I stay wit yu...We hug and cry again.  It feels so good to have a caring companion.

WE decided this morning to walk to Castrojeritz? and get a bus to Fromista.  But naturally when we got there there were no buses.  Fortunately the antibiotics from the doctor were having an impact and I was feeling much better.  I should mention that the hospitalero at the alberque where we stayed drove my prescription to the next town to get my medicine.....such kindness is sometimes overwhelming.  I am so gratelful.

So ...no buses meant only one thing...walk walk and keep walking...over a mountain ( thought the Meseta was flat)....then no albergues for miles and miles.  We were stuck...the guide book was not very clear about this or maybe I didnt read it right which is probably more correct.   In the middle of nowhere there appeared a German tour bus and Gizzla charmed the tour operator to give us a lift to Fromista.....otherwise it would have been sleeping in the fields with the flowers and I am not kidding.  I would never have made it to the next alberque.

So here we are in Fromista and I think now about half way to Santiago.  There is so much I would like to tell you about...so many happy moments and so many tears also.   There is a sign at the alberque here that says NO PAIN...NO GLORY.  I like that.....

Villa Franca to Burgos

Am now in Burgos.  It is wonderful city with much history and beautiful cathedral.  WE are staying in a hotel for   tonight with views of the cathedral.  I am resting here for a couple of days.  Became sick....bad cold I think...not good. 

Stayed at Ages last night .... a little hick village in the hills.  Stayed in a converted hay loft with 5 foot ceiling.  It was quite a fete getting to the toilet in the middle of the night trying hard not to hit my head on the low beams.  Gizzla and I were congratulating ourselves on getting such unusual accommodation to ourselves when we were hit with a group of spanish youths and the magic was shattered.  We had a very interestng night with the boisterous youths. Ten of us altogether in this loft with 5 foot ceiling.

We had a hard day walking as i was becoming quite sick and my feet were hurting.  Gizzla had a slight fall and stepped on her bamboo walking pole and snapped it.  Ooooooh! my fwiend haz dite......I am trying very hard not to laugh.  I said Oh dis is bad Gizzla....we will haf a funeral...so we laid the stick to rest in the woods.  She bought a new one today.

There was no way I could walk to Burgos so since there were no buses being so remote the hospitalero at Ages offered to take us to Burgos in his taxi....we managed to recruit another couple which spread the 30 euros in fare between us....so that was good.

The terrain has changed now and we seem to have left the wheat fields and vineyards behind.  This week we will start walking across the Miseta which is mostly flat!!!

We are meeting two Canadians tonight for dinner who we caught up with today with loud whoops in the Cathedral square.  My hilarious Frenchman is also here....more hugs and kisses.

From where I was last night to where I am now...have forgotten....Villa something

The day started well....breakfast with 2 from Uraguay, one from France, one German, Gizzla, one Italian and moi. I said I was from Australia and everyone went Ooooh....you are like Steve Urwin and Crocodile Dundee...tough!!!  ha ha.

At the moment I am on my knees again and stiff and sore again.  Walked 17 kms and am now in a plush alberque somewhere...cant remember.. had dinner tonight with the hilarious Frenchman, Jacque, who kept fanning me with his serviette to keep me awake.  He said we will sing so I said, Yes we will sing Frere Jacque.

Gizzla is a riot after one glass of vino tinto and we had a good laugh.  The senorita of the House here was not impressed with my smears of chocolate on my Pilgrim passport and Gizzla kept reminding me about it.  Cant take me anywhere....

Tomorrow we plan to walk the first 12kms up another mountain of the next stage and my plan is to get the bus into Burgos.  However, that was my plan this morning and we waited one hour for the bus and gave up and started walking....and you guessed it, 10 minutes up the road the bus came....Ah well another Camino lesson learned......

 A wierd thing is happening....I tell these people, who I have never met who mainly cant speak English, my funny stories and experiences and they crack up laughing....I speak with my International language of a bit of this and a bit of that and lots of gesticulations and they somehow get the meaning of what I am telling them.....it is wierd....but I am loving it..... I have found my sense of humour again.......

SANTO DOMINGO TO VILLAMAYOR DEL RIO

After yesterdays gruelling walk I decided not to walk according to John Brierly today....my feet are screaming at me....what are you doing woman? So only walked 18 kms today instead of 26 yesterday!!  It was a fairly easy walk but very little shade and now getting very hot.

Saw my first storks today, a whole row of the nesting on top of tall lamp posts...a great photo shot but would you believe my second battery was flat.  Will have to wait till Burgos now  before I can do anything about it.

I have marvelled at how incredibly green it is here...even greener than England.  It can be overwhelming to be totally alone in the middle of such a landscape with no one around for miles....no pilgrims...no people...no arrows just me and my Maker.

We finally made it to Villamayour del rio....it is a quite little Alberque in the middle of farmland....all you can hear is the birds and the distant traffic, a far cry from the 120 or so pilgrims last night and the 90 from the night before.  The alberque charges have been about 5 Euros for the past few nights which is great, specially since i dont know how much money is left in my account.

Tonight a meal is provided here for 8 Euros and breakfast for 3E.  All washing is done and dried.  I can smell the meal cooking  in the kitchen and my stomach is crying out for sustenance.

NAJERO TO SANTO DOMINGODE CALZADA

What an amazing day if not torturous.  It started of pleasant enough after a not so restful night at the alberque in Najero....dont know why they bothered about the mattress...I could feel the bed boards on my bones.  Cooked my first meal here, tortilla potatas with onions with a fresh salad and a bottle full of green olives washed down with vino tinto.  Gizzla was very impressed and we lavished every morsel.

I decided on this journey to do a John Brierley recommended route and vowed I wuld never do another one...naturally I got lost following the famous spanish sign posts.....about 4 extra kms on my already longer route.  No yellow arrows and not one other pilgrim in sight.  I was keen to not do the regular A to B thing but was truly wishing I was at my lowest point.  I wanted to see the Cistertian? Abbey at Cana and when I finally saw it I am crying all the way into the Abbey much to the distress of the receptionist there. I sat in the beautiful white sandstone church with the light shining down from above and allowed the faith that has withstood the ages refresh my soul.  It was worth it in the end to get there. 

The journey beyond that was gruelling ...now in the hot sun...I took the chance of two opportunites to stretch out on the wayside and felt like a tramp of  old with my knapsack and feet spayed out on the ground but i didnt care....it felt so good to rest.  I finally reached Santo D at 4.p.m. to find the most spectacular Alberque...called the Hilton of the Camino....was indeed like a 5 star hotel and we were greeted by two volunteer Canadians.   I was totally exhausted but managed to get to the supermarket and  buy some groceries for a simple meal.

Met my first Ausies a group of young guys who invited me to join them to farewell a friend and have a bit of drinkie but I declined but was quite chuffed to be asked.  there was a PIlgrim Mass that night at the cathedral but my body had got into rigour mortis so I went to bed instead and had a reasonable sleep.

There have been so many high lights but too many to mention.  I lose track of the days and the treasures along the way seem to sink down into my pool of collected memories never to be forgotten.

NAVARETT TO NAJERO (I think!)

Yesterday we left Logronia and walked 13 kms to Navarette....I thought i was going to die.....this was my worst day so far....I was physically and emotionally at the end of my rope.....I barelymade it to the alberque.  I threw my stuff on the bottom bunk and collapsed.  A Dutch lady came in after me and looked at me and said ...you are younger than me ..would you like the top bunk....I said WHAT!...I am sixty two....She said Oh! OK You are older ...I will go on top bunk....I said Yah! Goot!....For once I was glad for my years...no way would I have got on that top bunk.  I slept solid for two  hours before I did anything else.  I had a great rest and a simple meal of cheese and ham and cup of soup for tea and a back in bed by 7.45.......Up again at 5.30 and on the road at 7 a.m.  The hospitalero at the alberque made us all crepes and jam....very nice.

Now I am in Najero and walked 20 kms today.  I feel on top of the world.  It is a good lesson ro realize that everyday is so different...one day you feel like dying and the next climb mountains.  We stopped at a bar on the way (always at the top of a hill) and enjoyed cafe con leche wiht ham bagel and pastrie.  A hilarious Frenchman gave his wife a big kiss in the corner of the cafe and I shouted over  Hey! what about me and he came running over with  arms open wide and gave me a big hug and a kiss on each cheek.  I was ready for my next mountain.  The comeraderie here is fantastic....today I met a Lithuainian and yesterday a Latvian and an Irishman....such a mixed bunch!!  I am still the only Aussie on the road.

A crowd of school kids joined us on the Camino route all shouting Bien Camino to us.  the scenery today was outstanding....to much for my little camera to take in.....but it is imprinted in my memory forever.....

This is the region of La Reogia? famous for its wine...the locals say the best in the world.....did I mention the Fountain of Wine I passed earlier last week.  A fountain with flowing wine and also water.  A young Italina pilgrim filled his water flask with the wine....a got my mug out and had a small drink not wanting to fall asleep on the journey Ha Ha.

Todayd I was about fourth in the queue for the alberque so I have done very well today especially after yesterday.  Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift....today is now and I am learning to live in the moment.

I have extended my Camino by two weeks since I have not heard of any work to go back to in UK...I hope to make it to Leon and be able to walk the Meseta.  It is proving to be quite inexpensive to live..the most I have paid for an alberque so  far in 9 Euros....today is donation so I give 5 euros and maybe have a Pilgrim meal tonight for 9 Euros ...three course meal with bottle of vino tinto.....It is very pleasant here with lots of bars and restaurants along a fairly large river.  Alberque is  basic with 90 beds in one room.  I have a guy above me and a huge Amercian guy next to me.....he is 160kgs!!!  I will have my ear plugs in tonight for sure!!

At Torres del Rio waiting for bus

Just a few minutes to kill before we head off for the local bus.....it is 20 kms to Logrono but it is our treat day for Gizzla and I...she is 64 so we are very compatible in everyway...Ha Ha.  I love my body ...it has been amazing so far and my feet are incredible....my one blister is still healing but has not been a problem.  My bones are aching a bit and I am very stiff but so is everyone else so I am no different.

Stayed in a medieval hostel a couple of nights ago on top of a mountain...it was so ancient and so cold.  Very basic accomodation but tremendous hospitality from Dutch volunteers...was a special Camino experience. 

I get many phylosophical moments along the way with new perspectives on life and what is really important.  STanding alone in the middle of nowhere with miles and miles of rolling wheat fields and vineyards and mountains gives you true sense of uniqueness .....run out of time.....

Somewhere in Spain on the way to Logrono

Here I am today in Torres del Rio....the days are blurring in to each other.....have walked 18 kms yesterday and 20 today...think of getting a bus into Logrono tomorrow and rest up.  Lastnight was spent on top of a mountain and I didnt think I would make it up there.  The first alberque was very basic with just mattresses on the floor but I didnt care...i just want a place to rest my head....but my new German friend Gizzla said NO...we would look a the next one up another 20 steps further up the village....pant pant!!!  It turned out to be a alberque run by volunteer Dutch Penteclostal Christians so I felt really at home.  I found a song book and started singing some of the songs and was soon joined by Gizzla and another German lady and we each sang the songs in our own language.  After a beautiful dinner that evening about 12 of us joined together for a meditationa and scripture reading and we all sang Amazing Grace in our own languages....about 5 nations represented....a very special moment.  I thanked our host this morning for a beautiful stay and he thanked me for my singing which I thought quite amusing ....so wone has ever thanked me for my singing before.

The journed today was quite easy in comparison to other days and the scenery was spectacular...rolling young fields of wheat set in the midst of vineyards with a mountainous backdrop and blue skies.  Gizzla and  walk at the same pace...slooooow! so it is good company for each other.  I have walked many days on my own and it has been good but it is also good to have a companion who looks out for you.

Time is up....love you all.

OBANOS TO LORCA

The day started off warm and sunny and I left the village with a guy from Korea called Hun who told me he was 71....he was very sweet and carried a very basic pack held together withsafety pins cause his zip had broken...had none of the hi tech equipment that most of us seem to think is so essential.  The scenery is marvellous passing through vineyards and olive groves with mountains in back drop and lush green pastures and farmland.  The early spring red poppies are sprinkled along the way with yellow canola flowers.  Some hard walking up and down hills and rocky and i mean rocky path ways.  It makes the walking very slow.  3kms can take an hour and a half so you cant really judge how far you will travel ...its just a case of keep going.  Meeting many wonder ful people...so far have met Danish, Finish, Germans, French, Koreans and Spanish.  Waved to a couple of Aussies at Ronscavelles but not met any on the walk as such, no Kiwis or English.  I have my Aussie flag hanging over the side of my back pack and many people ask if I have come from Australia....I say Yes...and they go WOWª...maybe they think I walked here from Aus Ha Ha...anyway they love the Aussies.
One of my refections today was stopping at a little cemetry along the way on the side of a hill.  I was looking at all the gravestones and a little prayer seemed to come up from within....Give God your soul to keep for you too one day will beside me sleep.....dont know where that came from....it is odd what comes up.

So here I am at Lorca and staying at an absolutely fabulous alberque....such a warm welcome and great facilities with bar and restaurant downstairs....was going to have a massage but the masseur wasnt able to do it....sad!!
Travelled 15 kms today...it was enough with blister and all.  Am starting to realize that my two weeks will not be enough to get me to Burgos and back to UK so if I dont get any work between not and Tuesday next week I will keep going and maybe finish at Leon and finish the Camino to Santiago later this year before I go back hme....we shall see.  It is dinner time now...Perigrinos menu 9 Euros with vino tinto....tomorrow is another day on the Camino to Santiago....

CIZUR MINOR TO OBANAS

Where to start....so much to say...I am full of words....Two days since last post.   Travelled 17 kms yesterday and was totally exhausted by the end of it...never felt so tired.  The day was brutal...first of all got my first blister.

Had only travelled 500 mts from alberque when I felt something odd with my second toe...thought I,d better check it quick as maybe my sock wasnt right...anyways it seemed to be OK so kept going...3 kms on thougth I,d bette chek again ...was raining by now and windy...but a bench under a tree appeared and i took the chance to look at my foot ...what a performance in the rain....well there it was the biggest blister....on with the second skin...thank you Thelma and a foam toe protector and i kept going ...seemed to be OK....to date it is still there but not causing major probs.  Climbed my first mountain after the Pyrenees called Alto del Perdon ¿The Mountain of Forgiveness? It was a brutal climb but jus twhen you think you cant go another step we reached the top.  There was a prayer stone thingo with a big step up to it but I didnt have the strength to get up there so I threw my prayers stones up into it.....sorry guys, Sue, Rex, Bernie and John....your stones are on the top of a mountain forever.  Finally made it to Obanos a couple of kms short of where I would have liked to stay but the energy just wanst there.  Stayed at an OK alberque with a log fire....it was freezing there....never imagined it would be that cold.  Was too cold and stiff to go to a restaurant so had instant soup made in microwave and a small galss of vino tinto shared by one of the other pilgrims.  The comeraderie is just wonderful.  Slept quite well with no night noises nearby.  Thought I,d lost my camera next morning after i,d packed all my back pack up was so upset with myself and as a last minute effort i looked under the bed and there it was ....such a relief.....

Ziburi to Pamplona

I have found this internet place by chance in the funny little streets here in Pamplona....not having any luck gettig into my emails though.  Welll where to start.  What a day yesterday turned out to be.  Every day is a mystery in that I wonder how I get to the end of it.  Have to confess I got a bus with two others from Ziburi to Larossa?...one of the ladies damaged her knee on the way down to Ronscavellas...so a good thing i got  taxi I think!  She could only walk very slowly so we walked together ´doucement´slowly to Pamplona together. Martine is my age and French with little English so our conversation was qute interesting with my school French but we did well.  The walk to Pamplona was not exactly a walk in the park quite exacting and more mud and I took my second tumble down a slippery slope and wore a mud medal on my butt all the way to the city.  WE were boot lace deep in mud in places.

We finally hit Pamplona and got lost....coudnt find the alberque.....dont ask a Spaniard the way to anywhere....I am sure we were sent on a wild goose chase which wasnt very pleasant for Martine wthe her gammy knee.  Finally a Spanish angel rescued us and led us to the door of the monastery where we stayed the night.  The brothers there took care of Martine and made us very welcome.  This morning she was in a worse way so they were going to take her to a doctor.  I stayed with her for a while and then we said farewell.

I amazingly navigated my way through the outskirts of the city here and followed the little yellow arrows...they are a welcome sight and you just see them just at the right moment when you think you are lost again.

I am starting to get withdrawal syptoms for the English language...someone to have a good yack with.  I am not planning on going very far today but I said that yesterday and it was still five o clock before we rocked up to the alberque.  Hopefully tonight I will meet my stockbroker freind from USA at the next alberque at Cizur Menor.  She used to have a stockbroking business in the twin towers when the 7/11 happened.  It turned her life up side down.....hence the Camino for her.  WE had some good laughs together yesterday.
Gee its good to laugh...I feel I havent had such a good laugh for ages. This whole walk is so crazy but I am loving every minute of it.  I have two pairs of socks hanging on the side of my backpack drying and walking through this city and I couldnt care less ha Ha.

Well better go .....love to all....Oh! I have been leaving little prayers stones at all the crosses along the way for my sick and injured friends.  You are all in my prayers.  Ultreya e suseya! Onward and Upward to Santiago!

Ronsevellas to Zeburi - 20 kms

This has been the most exhausting day but feel so proud that I managed to walk 20 kms.  I thank god for my  walking pole, my wonderful new boots and my beautiful feet....I would kiss them if I could reach that far. But I am so weary now and sooooo stiff.

Am at the municipal hostel with a bunch of Asian people so not much sharing tonight though I have met a lovely lady from USA and a French lady who damaged her knee going down into Ronscavellas. I have lost Irene and Magda and left them way back up the road.   The walk was unbelievably tough....mud, mud, and more mud.  I walked up the middle of streams and had my first fall navigating down a slippery slope.  A gallant Frenchman happened to pass by and helped me up so that was worth it ....Ha ha!!

Will blog as can.....this experience is not to be missed.

St Jean Pied de Pont to Ronscevellas

There is so  much to say and not enough time or words to express the kaleidoscope of emotions I have felt since beginning my Camino.  St Jean Pied de Pont was delightful and I had a very comfortable night in a hotel and actually slept. The second night a great stay at L´Ësprit du Chemin...great people and great hospitality.  I cried my first Camino tears as I was hugged off on my journey.

First stop was Orisson 8 kms up and the climb was actually not as difficult as I imagined it would be.  The panoramic views were breathtaking and as I turned to go up the last hairpin bend I looked over to my left and thought I was  going to fall off the end of the world.  I cried my second Camino tears here.

Received a warm welcome at Orisson and shared a lovely meal with Germans, French and Spanish.  Was  grateful for new Canadian friends so we could at least communicate with each other.



Hospitalier said it was OK to go up over mountain even though there was still some snow and he would guide us over...so very exciting for us all.

However, we  got to about 5 kms to the top and the wind was unbelievable and the rain also.  My stupid poncho nearly air lifted me off the mountain like  Poncho Batman.  It was real scary...I was praying the 23rd Psalm and was up to the valley of the shadow of death part when  Irene said she was going back down to Orisson ...I said 'I'm with you' and the 3 of us returned back to base and got a taxi to about 1 km from Ronscavelles.  It was an incredible experience but I rather have done that than walk through knee deep snow for 3 hours as we heard the rest of the party had to do!!!


Had a great night at Ronscevellas and slept with 120 people from 11 nations in a monastery ...a very surreal experience and not to be missed.  Went to the Pilgrims Mass and received the pilgrim blessing which was very moving...more tears!

ST JEAN PIED DE PONT....HERE AT LAST!

Hi all this is very quick....key board here is strange......all well...but snow on the top of mountain...will not be be able to climb over tomorrow....but hope to get half way.  So thrilled to be here...it is beautiful here....met two lovely ladies from Canada who i will walk with tomorrow   met lady from Korea with back pack 11 kgs   she just decided to do this 2 weeks ago.......eeeek!!
Love you all
Jo

Six sleeps to go...

I am feeling much calmer now...all bookings have been made...bus ticket to Pamplona...taxi over the Mountain  http://www.expressbourricot.com/ and two nights at St Jean Pied de Pont.   I just cant wait to get my feet on that mountain'cause all I will have to think about is getting one foot in front of the other.

I totally panicked and rushed into the city and bought new boots.  I had a choice between two pairs of boots and chose a pair of  The North Face boots.  Not sure about the Gortex interiors but it was that or boots that nigh came half way up my legs it seemed....really over the top so to speak...anyway these ones support my ankles and are quite comfortable thus far....plenty of toe room.

Have just been doing short walks to break the boots in and may do one longish walk over the weekend and that will be it.

Next update will be when I'm there.....somewhere!!

The best laid schemes of mice and men.....

The best-laid schemes o' mice an 'men 
Oft go astray, 
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain, 
For promis'd joy! 
Robert Burns. 


Just when you think you've done everything you can do to be organised and prepared along comes the great ash cloud and throws the flying world into chaos. 


My plans have gone upside down and seven weeks of Camino and extended holiday have been compressed into two (long story).  I have decided now to walk from St Jean Pied de Pont and walk? over the Pyrenees to Burgos which was where I had planned to start my Camino.  I decided on Burgos because I would have many days of flat walking across the Miseta to get used to the walking rhythm and get stronger before reaching the mountain to O'Ceibrero. 


Now I am panicking because I feel unprepared for the climb out of St Jean, my boots suddenly seem too small, my head is doing me in with all these changes and my heart if full of disappointment that a friend will not able to join me now on the Walk.   I suppose I am feeling way out of my depth right now....I like to feel in control you know, Ha Ha!!  


I have got my back pack down to a manageable weight ..a bit over 6 kgs so am comfortable with that and have been doing 7km walks around the flat district of Cambridge.  I am suddenly feeling pressure on my little toes and horrified that the boots may somehow now be too small.  Only ten day before I leave!!  


Apparently I managed to get the last bed at Orisson, a hostel part way up the Pyrenees, so I take that as an encouraging sign in my favour. I have booked a couple of nights in St Jean, one night in the hotel, my treat to myslf, and the second night at L'Esprit du Chemin.  I am looking forward to meeting other pilgrims....maybe I will meet someone to walk with part of the way.......

Easter Sunday

Was great to be able to get a lift to church on Easter Sunday.  I could hear the C of E church bells pealing away up the road, such an English thing. You don't hear them much in Aus maybe 'cause bell towers aren't part of the modern architecture any more.  Anyway we went off in a different direction to a Pentecostal church that meets in a school hall.  No organs here.....The young band got up to play, the lead guitarist struck a chord, the drums rolled and up came the words on the large screen....'When I survey the wondrous Cross'...words written in the 17th or 18th century!  The people stood up and we went full belt into that beautiful hymn.


One of the reasons I left the mainline churches was because I half fell asleep through some of those old dirgey hymns so it was really refreshing to see and hear these bright, joyful young people singing a dearly loved hymn so full heartedly.  Still feeling out of my tree a bit, being so far from home and full of anticipation as my pilgrimage looms even nearer (four weeks to go), tears steamed down my face as we sang through the verses.  It will be good to remember the words each day on the Camino to remind me of the cost of God's love.


When I survey the wondrous cross
On which the Prince of Glory died
My richest gain I count but loss
And pour contempt on all my pride

Forbid it Lord that I should boast
Save in the death of Christ my God
All the vain things that charm me most
I sacrifice them to His blood

See from His head His hands His feet
Sorrow and love flow mingled down
Did ere such love and sorrow meet
Or thorns compose so rich a crown

Were the whole realm of nature mine
That were an offering far too small
Love so amazing so divine
Demands my soul
My life my all

Hills, hills and more hills

Well, here I am in hill country...Co Durham, in the north east of England...land of my birth, so beautiful, wild and green. I had never realized till this week when I came back to do some hill training just how hilly it is. I am staying with my sister Carole and her partner, Alan. It is so remote here...so country, sheep, cows, farm yards, tractors, stone walls and horses and the so healthy, invigorating smell of the barn yards as you pass by. There's hen eggs and duck eggs for sale up the road and an abattoir of sorts over the hill two fields up. There's a random peacock that struts around the field next door accompanied on some mornings by fat pheasants. My sister reckons the peacock got lost somehow but nor sure from where. A quaint little village with a pub and no shops. A mobile library and post office visit the village once a week.

I walked for two days with full back-pack et al. First day through Hamsterley Pine Forest managed by the Forestry Commission. A beautiful walk along by the river and one fairly long exacting hill.

Am amazed at just how much water there is here. Australia be very jealous. The river here is so free and fast flowing even with warning signs telling how deep it is in places. There are little brooks and water falls tumbling down from the hills that run along the Forest Drive lined with stately pines. It is off-season but already the mountain bike riders are testing out the new bike runs that Alan has created over the past year. Right of way seems to be given to the bikies so walkers look out. Was pleased to see though that only walkers were allowed along by the river. I covered about 12 kms and just to add to my training experience it rained quite well for me and happy to say my Rainbird jacket held up really well....but not only did it rain it also HAILED. So I suppose you could say I walked through rain, hail and shine ha ha! The sun did come out for brief moments.

I packed a lunch which I scoffed down asap as I decided bananas weighed too much. Had a boiled egg and two compressed buns. I was surprised how much I started to chill down after I stopped for a while. Was warm enough while walking but was by now so wet from sweating that as soon as the cold air hit my back I realized how cold it was. A good enough motivation to keep moving.

On day 2 I decided on another route that Carole had showed me earlier. Unfortunately I took a wrong turn and ended up back where I started...needless to say it still covered 8 kms. Having a map is certainly a good policy! Good lesson learned. Returned to base for lunch and over the rest of the day covered about another 9 kms. My goal was to do at least 15kms as that is what I am aiming to do on the Camino each day. More hills on this route and I can say quite emphatically that going up the hills is definitely better than down. Walking poles are now definitely on my must-get list. I was quite stiff by the end of the day but pleased that I had accomplished my goal. I did it, and with killer hills to boot. I had a revelation somewhere along the way that I didn't need to cover the 15 kms all in one hit. Where did I get that idea from? So took my time and had plenty of breaks. Was OK - though I was quite weary by the end of the day. Dont care if I never see another hill. Walking in Cambridge will be a breeze after this.

Tomorrow I will walk a little section of my previous walk and call in for coffee at The Cross Keys pub on the way home. Maybe I will ask for 'cafe con leche' but maybe not!

Six weeks to go!

Only six weeks to go.....training practice has been accelerating this week and walked average 10 & 1/2 kms two days in a row. Took under two & half hours so am very happy with that considering I had near enough full weight in back pack including water. Am aiming to keep total weight to six and half kgs. Seemed to manage a fairly steady pace (for me anyway) but was feeling quite weary after two hours walking without a prolonged rest. Will have to do at least that again every day!!!! The mind boggles!!! Can she do it? Yes! she can!!

There are some lovely walking paths around Cambridge...hope to discover some more in the next few weeks.

Am heading north this week to my sister's and hope to get some hill training in...that will be the big test....aiming to do 15 kms a day for at least two days.....will at least prove to me I can do it. Will pack a picnic lunch and eat with the sheep Baa Baa!! Lamb season too!

Packing again!

                                                                                                          
 My 32 ltr OMM backpack arrived a few days ago. It has a lean weight of 600gms and 750 gms full weight.   When I first saw it I thought eeeek! it's too small, but  it accommodates a lot more than you would think. In any case the whole point of the Camino is to carry as little as possible so this is enforced minimalism I perceive. And I thought I was incapable of travelling light....well this will surely put me to the test. It has a whistle too...in case I should get lost on the mountains when the freaky mists descend....Ooooo! And also a half sleep mat just in case I end up sleeping on the ground somewhere (God forbid) or for when I collapse along the way from deadly exhaustion and foot rot. I took a chance buying it over the internet as my freedom to shop around, now I am in the UK working is very limited; but, on good feedback about the backpack I took the risk.  I am a small frame and weigh 62 kgs and it sits really well on my back.http://www.theomm.com/products/packs/classicMarathon32L.html


I have done a couple of practise walks with a near full back pack and it was OK...in fact seemed curiously quite light...but I only walked for an hour and a half so hardly a reliable measure of comfort. I have had to buy a cheap set of kitchen scales off e-bay to more accurately measure what I am putting into the backpack. The 50 year old set from the downstairs kitchen don't quite cut it or maybe I just dont want to believe they could be right....7 kgs so far.

My job assignment has been quite kind to me thus far all things considered and I have heaps of free time to walk, rest and browse the internet on my fantastic Mini Dell laptop.

The Camino Santiago forum has been just wonderfully helpful in answering all those niggly little questions about what to pack, trains, buses, etc. http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/

So on this pilgrimage journey where am I up to thus far? Emotiionally I feel like I have been on a roller coaster ride for the past two weeks or so and have finally learned (I hope) that I can no longer expect that some emotional support I had trusted may in fact not be there for me in the future. This has been quite confronting and a struggle to come to terms with but in a spiritual sense it has released me to walk the Camino more by faith now which is what it is all about! As the old hymn says 'Trust and Obey for there's no other way.....'

Finding my Feet for the Road to Santiago de Compostela

Well, have been in Brit nearly two weeks. Gosh have done so much in this time. No wonder I have been a bit disoriented and all at sea. Was warmly welcomed by Carol and Sue in Harrow, London and spent a whole day in my PJs browsing on the internet. Felt quite good and not so jet lagged as I expected and better still my ankles hardly swelled up at all - how amazing is that! Booked my flight to Bilbao with Easy Jet for the 6th May and booked into a hotel at Burgos for the first night - my first and last treat for 12 days. Then booked into Hotel Paris at Leon on 18th May. The name really appeals to me and is in the centre of the town centre and near all restaurants, cafes etc I am told.

On Saturday morning I caught a train into London city to Blackfriars on the Embankment to attend a Practical Pilgrims Day held by the Confraternity of St James.  The timing was amazing really being in between my arrival in UK and starting work the next week so was fortunate to be able to attend.   a very interesting and informative day meeting many different people, some curious about the Camino, others like myself well into the preparation of going and others who had already experienced the challenge of the long journey.  It was encouraging to see so many others there my own vintage.  At least I'm not the only one whose crackers! Lots of questions were asked from the weather to accommodation concerns and what to pack.  The key concerns being feet and weight of back pack.  Less is best!

On the Sunday after I arrived I travelled to Saxmunden on East Anglia coast in preparation for a days mandatory refresher training ready to start work assignment on Wednesady. Such a long ridiculous journey...never travel by train in Britain if you can help it on a Sunday....track maintenance abounds...three trains and a bus to get there. Three and half hours for a two hour journey!

Stayed with my son Scott, and Emma for one night on my return to London. Great excitement as we all anticipate the screening of The Dinner Party at the Australian Film Festival in Sydney in early March. His first big screen movie. Such a great achievement and has taken many years of persistence and patience to get there. A good lesson for me with the Camino ahead....nine weeks to go.

Feeling so much better today....feelings of sadness and flow of tears have all but subsided...just odd pangs of longing for the familiar, the sound of the surf and home.

Have started walking again round the familiar routes I discovered last year. The track I take is akin to some parts of the Camino through the fields. Regrettably the mindless machine of progress has created another scar through the Cambridge countryside - hopefully it will get rid of the heavy snarl of traffic around the city otherwise cant see the point of it all. Anyway walked solidly for one hour two days in a row and half hour tonight- three miles trip - about 5 kms. Not bad but with a full back pack on will probably slow down to four kms an hour. A far cry from 15-20 kms a day with a full back pack but training practice in Australia was encouraging especially the climb up to Eagles Nest from Thredbo in Snowy Mountains with John my Camino companion. What an ordeal that turned out to be but so exhilarating and rewarding. Will always treasure the special moments of that day.

Spring is in the air....three days in a row of blue skies and a burst of colour in the garden with a patch of irises suddenly standing to attention by the front door.

Spring, the season of new birth and hope.

Where am I going? Why am I here?

It dawned on me yesterday that my pilgrimage started the minute I said my last tearful farewell at the airport in Sydney ten days ago (gosh is that all, seems like light years away).

When I left for UK same time last year my heart was light and eagerly looking forward to whatever the future held for me...new job, new challenges (and there were certainly plenty of them) meeting new people, making new friends, reunions with old friends, see family again, travel to new places, esp Paris (Oh! Paris you were beautiful) and Canada (just awesome).

This time I have exactly the same to look forward to and more but the pull to stay in Aus is so much stronger. I suspect I am homesick. I cannot recall feeling this way ever before not even when I emigrated at the tender age of 25.