Sarria to Ferreiros 14 Kms Day 2

What a spectacular day! Fourteen Kms doesn't sound like much but it was enough for me today and I reached my intended destination for day one. My ankle is faring very well.

I shared a meal with two German ladies at the hotel last night and once again good to have company though their English was as good as my German but even so we managed to have some conversation about the Camino.

It was only 5 C when I left Sarria but the climb out of the town was enough to get the old bod warmed up.

The scenery was just awesome today and the track a great challenge in some places . Everywhere is beautifully green and the streams overflowed often across the track. I have to will myself to take in the senses of the moment: the spectacular scenery rolled out before my eyes: the spring flowers in the hedge rows: the distant call of a cookoo: the local roosters cockadoodling: the buzz of bees among the wild flowers: the twittering of the birds: breathing in the smell of fresh cow splat. I am noticing all these wonderful displays of nature and it feels good to be alive.

I was surprised how busy it is with pilgrims . I was rarely not too far away from fellow sojourners. Lots of cyclists too. Quite a few Americans this year!

I had two pit stops with great coffee and food. Barbadelo and Morgade are both very popular. That first cup of coffee was like liquid gold pouring down my throat. I love Spanish coffee.

I arrived here at Ferreiros at 2 pm. I was the first one in the alberque. Only E5 for the night. Good value. Good facilities. A meal tonight at the nearby restaurant then into my sleeping bag.

Santiago de Compostela to Sarria Day 1

So, finally, here I am in Sarria the starting point for my journey to Santiago. My day started at 4 am and I arrived here around 3 pm. A few minor dramas like forgetting the power converter for my phone. I packed the European bit but forgot the UK bit and had to go buy another one at the airport. Also forgot my European Health Card but being positive I won't need it, bung foot or not! It's still a bit swollen and quite bruised but pain free!

For those who would appreciate details of the journey to assist with personal planning ( for those of us who like to plan :)) I flew with Ryan Air with no luggage problems except I checked my pack pack in at extra cost when I realized my Leki walking pole was classed as a dangerous item! I stayed overnight at a local B&B, Stanstead Lodge, very reasonably priced with pick up from airport and return in morning. Cost 12 GBPs for transfers. The Polish driver asked If I had just arrived from Australia which I thought curious cause I couldn't remember saying I was Australian on the booking system. I asked her how she knew and she surprised me by saying with equal surprise ' by my accent'. Thought this cute considering that most who know me think I am still very northern.

Met a fellow pilgrim, also on the way to Sarria, in the airport lounge and to wile away the time waiting for the bus to Lugo we reminisced on adventures and experiences on our previous Camino in 2010. It was good to have a companion to Sarria.

The bus terminal at Santiago is directly outside the main entrance of the airport so my well rehearsed Spanish to ask for directions were not needed!
The first part of the journey is to Lugo, an ancient walled city but I didn't have any time to explore. Changed to another bus at Sarria after buying a ticket inside the terminal. It was pay the driver for the Lugo bus. Total cost of bus tickets was E12.50.

The scenery on the bus trip was lush and green. The bus route wove in and out of the Camino which gave me a hint of the days to come.

I am staying tonight at the Hotel Mar De Plata which is very modern and priced well. E43 for a double room and ensuite. As it turned out the hotel is very close to the bus station but I had to walk across town and back again didn't I to find it!! I went into a pharmacia to ask for help and was given a map which was very helpful. Not sure if it's useful to know a few words in Spanish cause you get a blast of Spanish back and haven't a clue what they said. Just nod, say 'gracias' and move on!

So dinner tonight in the hotel and tomorrow it all begins again!

On The Way again....with a wonky ankle!

As I write I am on the train heading back to London and it looks like to sunshine again.  My head is all in a muddle about the plan to finish this Camino and after falling over and damaging my ankle I was on the brink of cancelling the whole show.

However, my foot seems to be recovering though still swollen and my ribs are very bruised.  It will be a case of  'easy does it' though that was going to be my philosophy any way.  I have never felt less prepared for a journey, either physically, mentally or spiritually.  It is going to be an interesting time.

My pack back is packed and repacked for the hundredth time and I have learned about half dozen Spanish words to get me through.

I fly out from Stansted Airport at 06.30 on Friday 19th April to Santiago airport and catch a bus (hopefully, if I can find it) to Lugo and then a bus to Sarria.  I have booked into a hotel at Sarria for Friday night and hopefully it will give me another rest day for my foot before I hit the trail.

Unfortunately I am unable to complete the Camino from Leon but I look forward to doing my best with the final 118 kms or so to reach Santiago. 

I hope you will join me in my adventures on The Way.

In Leon and well rested...

Have been in Leon two days now and I am feeling so much better.   Stayed at the Benedictine monastery run by the nuns who do a great job with the  help of many volunteers from all over the world.  No pillows or blankets here but it is so warm now blankets are not necessary but no pillow was a bit uncomfortable.  There was a lovely pilgrim blessing from the nuns that night and a lovely service in the church....I find these occasions very moving.


Leon is a great city...I love it...in fact I love the Spanish culture very much.  The restaurants, cafes and bars abound here and the atmosphere is very relaxed and carefree.  There is very little traffic in the centre of Spanish cities as the streets are so narrow.  Yesterday Gizzla and I became tourists for the second time after Burgos and toured all the historical sites.  I must research my Spanish history a bit more...other than the Spanish Inquisition I know very little but it is rich in its history and beautiful buildings, cathedrals and castles.

Gizzla and I shared our last meal together with a very pleasant Austrian man from the alberque who unfortunately had the bad experience of having his boots stolen.  I cant imagine why anyone would want to steal  someone else's boots...they are so personal.  Must have been a very poor pilgrim I think... He has had some very bad blisters and sore feet but walking nearly 30 kms a day is hardly surprising...

So this morning Gizzla and I made a tearful farewell.....she will complete her pilgrimage to Santiago and hopes to see Finisterre probably by bus and complete her journey.  I had a very sincere invitation to visit her in Berlin sometime....we shall see. 

Today I get the bus to Bilbao (six hours drive)...it will be nice to watch the scenery go by and rest.

Tomorrow I plan to visit the Gugenheim? Museum as my flight back to UK is not till 10.30 pm.

So adios amigos, farewell my friends...the journey we have travelled has come to an end......I have enjoyed so much sharing it with you and thank you so much for you prayers and support........May we meet again another time to finish the Camino to Santiago de Compostella.......

Mansilla to about 7 kms before Leon 11 kms

Had a good stay at Mansilla at the municiapal alberque.....had the best sleep in days.  The hospitalero there is somewhat of an expert on blisters so Gizzla and I along with another German had our blisters inspected.  I was concerned that mine may have become infected but they were OK.  Wish they felt OK but still quite tender.

Since we had time to spare we decided to walk to the town nearest to Leon about 11 kms.  It proved to be very tiring...our feet have had enough.  It is recommended that you get the bus from Mansilla into Leon as the route is mainly alongside the busy route into the city.  I would encourage this view though many die hard pilgrims were up very early like 5.30 am to walk into the city.  We have met pilgrims today who have walked over 30 kms.....I shudder!!

There were beautiful fields of wild flowers along the way which gave some inspiration to the walk in the hot sun. 

The alberque here is OK with about 12 beds....we had a pleasant meal and now I am ready (again) for my bed.  We are hoping to get a bus of the remaining journey into Leon.

The sun is very hot now and there is much sense in getting an early start if you are going to walk.

I caught up with the young Australina guy in Mansilla who I met way back....he was pleased to see me again...a familiar face that speaks English I think.  He said he had found the journey very hard which was quite consoling to me, in fact there have been several younger people who have said the same.  I suppose it is the difficulty of the terrain that puts us to the test and sharpens us up and hopefully reshapes us. 

When I look back and reflect on my photos I find it hard to believe that I have walked where I have walked.

BERCIANOS DEL REAL CAMINO TO MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS 7 KMS

As you can see we didnt make it very far today....My feet were not in good shape and I was feeling quite weak...maybe something to do with a bad nights sleep.  However, our stay at the municipal alberque though quite quaint and rustic turned out to be one of those Camino moments.  The hostel is run by the local church and the priest welcomed us all at the evening meal prepared by the volunteers.  It was served up at 8 pm so we pilgrims were ready to eat the table legs we were so ravenous. 

WE had a very tasty mixed salad for an apetizer followed by the most delicious lentil broth with sausage and potatoes.  It was served out of the biggest soup pot I have ever seen and it took two people to carry it in.  It was placed ceremoniously in the middle of the dining room and suddenly there were about six soup ladles and six volunteers seving out the soup.  We had wine and bread to go w ith it.

Afterwards we had to wash up outside in the laudry tubs.  For some reason I had had a spurt of energy earlier in the day and scrubbed out the sinks.  Lily, the one and only Dutch lady there, who was drying up the dishes, shouted at me....its good thing you cleaned out the tubs eh!!  It was great fun everyone pitching in to clean up.

We are now in Mansilla.  We walked 7 kms then got a bus....this was the second success bus connection.  I wouldnt be very optimistic about catching buses on the Meseta.....there was never a one when I needed it....tourist bus apart. 

I will have a couple of days in Leon and take in the history and culture of t he city before heading back to Bilbao on Sunday....I am starting to feel a bit sad at t he prospect of leaving this all behind......

Currently in BERCIANOS del REAL CAMINO

I have lost a few days and with little time on a pay internet cant really catch up....hopefully later I can fill in the gaps.

The last few days have been very hard but there is joy in finding a bed for the night and a place to rest my head and FEET.  We have walked long roads without any rest point apart from the side of the road.  Gizzla is unhappy about sitting on the cold gravel road....personally I couldnt care less.  Today I am feeling stronger for the first time in many days though a cough is still hanging around. 

We walked through Moratinos and I remembered that Rebecca of the Santiago Forum lived here so I said to Gizzla I would like to stop and say hallo....not really expecting anyone to be home, called The Peaceable Kingdom.  Not only were Rebecca and Paddy there they invited us to stay the night and we enjoyed their warm hospitality and lovely food and a quiet place to rest our heads. 

Today we walked 20 kms...it was a marathon fete for us both.....even Gizzla started to complain about sore feet....usually it is just me.  My poor left toes look like they have leprosy with compeed stuck on every toe except the big one which has escaped blisters so far.  Gizzla now has two "flusters" ...blisters...and is very unhappy with them...

There have been about three memorial crosses along the way since  I started and today there was the third one....A Perigrino (Pilgrim) of Santiago died there in 1998.  Tears stream down my face...I  have no idea why I am crying....but I let the tears flow.  Gizzla says Oooh! he was from Germany and touches my arm with understanding....we continue our walk to the alberque about 2 kms to go....we walk in silence and forget about our sore feet.....someones son, father, brother, lover, husband or friend.  It is very sobering.

The sun is getting  quite hot now.  But today we started early at 7.00 a.m.....By 9.30 we had walked 10 kms to Sahagun and were very pleased with ourselves but the next 10 kms were much harder.

It is quite comforting in a selfish sort of way to notice the other pilgrims hobbling around.  I have seen some corker blisters which make mine seem quite tame.  It is hard walking in the hot sun.  About two days ago after walking about 17kms and I couldn't take another step I saw a church tower not far off (always a sign of hope).

I said to a Frenchman who we had met further back (who had already walked 30 kms) if he thought the alberque was there...he said: No that is the church and the cemetery...I convulse into a cough splutter....He said laughing...It is for you..Oui!  The alberque is just over the hill ...and so it was....not a step too soon.


The heart of the Camino is meeting the people and sharing experiences even when you don't understand each others language....there is a universal language of groans and laughter.  The Camino is a global village....with everyone looking out for each other.....Oh that the political world were the same....

My mind often flashes back to the lovely cool surf that I enjoyed so much in January and February in Australia as the sweat drips down my back and neck as I walk along....

In two days I should be in Leon and wondering what to do as my bus is booked for Sunday....maybe I will keep walking!!!! Oh no!!.......

I am currently in a rustic alberque in above town.....The alberque for tonight is run by the local  church and they are preparing a shared meal....I think there are at least 60 pilgrims to feed so it will  be interesting....