Had a reasonable stay at the municipal alberque but Gizzla and i were unimpressed with the E2,50 breakfast. I am feeling alot better but not too strong. A few stops along the way to attend to a persistent blister. It seems to be a long walk but at least is very flat. I think we have got over the really hard part of the Meseta. The flowers along the way today have been spectacular. Gizzla stops every 5 minutes to take photos...even a snail on a flower leaf...I crack up laughing.
I am exhausted when we reach the alberque here...I am aching everywhere. We are staying at the Santa Maria alberque run by the nuns...it is 'perfecto'...males amd females separate and no bunks.....we girls here love the no male atmosphere for a change. It is peaceful and quiet.
I have been thinking about lessons learned in a practical sense and since my time on the Camino in only one week left I have given some thought to what I would do differently. I would bring over pants instead of a poncho...it was useless in the wind and rain just when i really needed something to keep me warm and dry on the Pyrenees. Fortunately it has not rained too much since so has not been any more of a problem. It is ggod to have a good first aid kit with plenty of Compeed which you can buy in UK and here but quite expensive I found but certainly helpful. Only of benefit before you get the blister though. I have aquired three blisters to date, twohave healed and one is persistant. They can be painful little blighters * I mean blisters*. My right foot has remained blister free...maybe something to do with the walking pole *who knows*....this key board is a bit strange..
To date I have not used any insect repellant but that probably will change as the weather warms up. I noticed today a few little clouds of little black flies buzzing around.
My 750 ml water bottle which has travelled with me from St Jean Pied de Pont has become quite battered and has difficulty standing upright....I am sympathetic. However it may make it to the end like its owner....I hope.
Tomorrow we walk 17 kms straihgt with no stop off points.....need lots of water and food for the journey......
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Friday, May 28, 2010
Burgos to Fromista
We have walked 20 kms today. I have lost track of the days...one blurs into the next....there have been so many adventures...I have been quite sick. Somehow made it to Hontanos...a little village in the middle of nowhere that looks like it is falling down. It swings from serious deterioration on the one hand to serious restoration on the other...it seems the town has just woken up out of siesta and decided to restore the village. Gizzla and I were prepared to say farewell here as I couldnt go on...I was too sick and exhausted. The hospitalero organised for me to see a doctor and we tearfully said our farewells. I was feeling quite glum after that sitting on my bed looking at my bits and pieces....5 minutes later I hear Gizzla on the stairwell....Yohanna....hear her voice say....I stay wit yu...We hug and cry again. It feels so good to have a caring companion.
WE decided this morning to walk to Castrojeritz? and get a bus to Fromista. But naturally when we got there there were no buses. Fortunately the antibiotics from the doctor were having an impact and I was feeling much better. I should mention that the hospitalero at the alberque where we stayed drove my prescription to the next town to get my medicine.....such kindness is sometimes overwhelming. I am so gratelful.
So ...no buses meant only one thing...walk walk and keep walking...over a mountain ( thought the Meseta was flat)....then no albergues for miles and miles. We were stuck...the guide book was not very clear about this or maybe I didnt read it right which is probably more correct. In the middle of nowhere there appeared a German tour bus and Gizzla charmed the tour operator to give us a lift to Fromista.....otherwise it would have been sleeping in the fields with the flowers and I am not kidding. I would never have made it to the next alberque.
So here we are in Fromista and I think now about half way to Santiago. There is so much I would like to tell you about...so many happy moments and so many tears also. There is a sign at the alberque here that says NO PAIN...NO GLORY. I like that.....
WE decided this morning to walk to Castrojeritz? and get a bus to Fromista. But naturally when we got there there were no buses. Fortunately the antibiotics from the doctor were having an impact and I was feeling much better. I should mention that the hospitalero at the alberque where we stayed drove my prescription to the next town to get my medicine.....such kindness is sometimes overwhelming. I am so gratelful.
So ...no buses meant only one thing...walk walk and keep walking...over a mountain ( thought the Meseta was flat)....then no albergues for miles and miles. We were stuck...the guide book was not very clear about this or maybe I didnt read it right which is probably more correct. In the middle of nowhere there appeared a German tour bus and Gizzla charmed the tour operator to give us a lift to Fromista.....otherwise it would have been sleeping in the fields with the flowers and I am not kidding. I would never have made it to the next alberque.
So here we are in Fromista and I think now about half way to Santiago. There is so much I would like to tell you about...so many happy moments and so many tears also. There is a sign at the alberque here that says NO PAIN...NO GLORY. I like that.....
Monday, May 24, 2010
Villa Franca to Burgos
Am now in Burgos. It is wonderful city with much history and beautiful cathedral. WE are staying in a hotel for tonight with views of the cathedral. I am resting here for a couple of days. Became sick....bad cold I think...not good.
Stayed at Ages last night .... a little hick village in the hills. Stayed in a converted hay loft with 5 foot ceiling. It was quite a fete getting to the toilet in the middle of the night trying hard not to hit my head on the low beams. Gizzla and I were congratulating ourselves on getting such unusual accommodation to ourselves when we were hit with a group of spanish youths and the magic was shattered. We had a very interestng night with the boisterous youths. Ten of us altogether in this loft with 5 foot ceiling.
We had a hard day walking as i was becoming quite sick and my feet were hurting. Gizzla had a slight fall and stepped on her bamboo walking pole and snapped it. Ooooooh! my fwiend haz dite......I am trying very hard not to laugh. I said Oh dis is bad Gizzla....we will haf a funeral...so we laid the stick to rest in the woods. She bought a new one today.
There was no way I could walk to Burgos so since there were no buses being so remote the hospitalero at Ages offered to take us to Burgos in his taxi....we managed to recruit another couple which spread the 30 euros in fare between us....so that was good.
The terrain has changed now and we seem to have left the wheat fields and vineyards behind. This week we will start walking across the Miseta which is mostly flat!!!
We are meeting two Canadians tonight for dinner who we caught up with today with loud whoops in the Cathedral square. My hilarious Frenchman is also here....more hugs and kisses.
Stayed at Ages last night .... a little hick village in the hills. Stayed in a converted hay loft with 5 foot ceiling. It was quite a fete getting to the toilet in the middle of the night trying hard not to hit my head on the low beams. Gizzla and I were congratulating ourselves on getting such unusual accommodation to ourselves when we were hit with a group of spanish youths and the magic was shattered. We had a very interestng night with the boisterous youths. Ten of us altogether in this loft with 5 foot ceiling.
We had a hard day walking as i was becoming quite sick and my feet were hurting. Gizzla had a slight fall and stepped on her bamboo walking pole and snapped it. Ooooooh! my fwiend haz dite......I am trying very hard not to laugh. I said Oh dis is bad Gizzla....we will haf a funeral...so we laid the stick to rest in the woods. She bought a new one today.
There was no way I could walk to Burgos so since there were no buses being so remote the hospitalero at Ages offered to take us to Burgos in his taxi....we managed to recruit another couple which spread the 30 euros in fare between us....so that was good.
The terrain has changed now and we seem to have left the wheat fields and vineyards behind. This week we will start walking across the Miseta which is mostly flat!!!
We are meeting two Canadians tonight for dinner who we caught up with today with loud whoops in the Cathedral square. My hilarious Frenchman is also here....more hugs and kisses.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
From where I was last night to where I am now...have forgotten....Villa something
The day started well....breakfast with 2 from Uraguay, one from France, one German, Gizzla, one Italian and moi. I said I was from Australia and everyone went Ooooh....you are like Steve Urwin and Crocodile Dundee...tough!!! ha ha.
At the moment I am on my knees again and stiff and sore again. Walked 17 kms and am now in a plush alberque somewhere...cant remember.. had dinner tonight with the hilarious Frenchman, Jacque, who kept fanning me with his serviette to keep me awake. He said we will sing so I said, Yes we will sing Frere Jacque.
Gizzla is a riot after one glass of vino tinto and we had a good laugh. The senorita of the House here was not impressed with my smears of chocolate on my Pilgrim passport and Gizzla kept reminding me about it. Cant take me anywhere....
Tomorrow we plan to walk the first 12kms up another mountain of the next stage and my plan is to get the bus into Burgos. However, that was my plan this morning and we waited one hour for the bus and gave up and started walking....and you guessed it, 10 minutes up the road the bus came....Ah well another Camino lesson learned......
A wierd thing is happening....I tell these people, who I have never met who mainly cant speak English, my funny stories and experiences and they crack up laughing....I speak with my International language of a bit of this and a bit of that and lots of gesticulations and they somehow get the meaning of what I am telling them.....it is wierd....but I am loving it..... I have found my sense of humour again.......
At the moment I am on my knees again and stiff and sore again. Walked 17 kms and am now in a plush alberque somewhere...cant remember.. had dinner tonight with the hilarious Frenchman, Jacque, who kept fanning me with his serviette to keep me awake. He said we will sing so I said, Yes we will sing Frere Jacque.
Gizzla is a riot after one glass of vino tinto and we had a good laugh. The senorita of the House here was not impressed with my smears of chocolate on my Pilgrim passport and Gizzla kept reminding me about it. Cant take me anywhere....
Tomorrow we plan to walk the first 12kms up another mountain of the next stage and my plan is to get the bus into Burgos. However, that was my plan this morning and we waited one hour for the bus and gave up and started walking....and you guessed it, 10 minutes up the road the bus came....Ah well another Camino lesson learned......
A wierd thing is happening....I tell these people, who I have never met who mainly cant speak English, my funny stories and experiences and they crack up laughing....I speak with my International language of a bit of this and a bit of that and lots of gesticulations and they somehow get the meaning of what I am telling them.....it is wierd....but I am loving it..... I have found my sense of humour again.......
Friday, May 21, 2010
SANTO DOMINGO TO VILLAMAYOR DEL RIO
After yesterdays gruelling walk I decided not to walk according to John Brierly today....my feet are screaming at me....what are you doing woman? So only walked 18 kms today instead of 26 yesterday!! It was a fairly easy walk but very little shade and now getting very hot.
Saw my first storks today, a whole row of the nesting on top of tall lamp posts...a great photo shot but would you believe my second battery was flat. Will have to wait till Burgos now before I can do anything about it.
I have marvelled at how incredibly green it is here...even greener than England. It can be overwhelming to be totally alone in the middle of such a landscape with no one around for miles....no pilgrims...no people...no arrows just me and my Maker.
We finally made it to Villamayour del rio....it is a quite little Alberque in the middle of farmland....all you can hear is the birds and the distant traffic, a far cry from the 120 or so pilgrims last night and the 90 from the night before. The alberque charges have been about 5 Euros for the past few nights which is great, specially since i dont know how much money is left in my account.
Tonight a meal is provided here for 8 Euros and breakfast for 3E. All washing is done and dried. I can smell the meal cooking in the kitchen and my stomach is crying out for sustenance.
Saw my first storks today, a whole row of the nesting on top of tall lamp posts...a great photo shot but would you believe my second battery was flat. Will have to wait till Burgos now before I can do anything about it.
I have marvelled at how incredibly green it is here...even greener than England. It can be overwhelming to be totally alone in the middle of such a landscape with no one around for miles....no pilgrims...no people...no arrows just me and my Maker.
We finally made it to Villamayour del rio....it is a quite little Alberque in the middle of farmland....all you can hear is the birds and the distant traffic, a far cry from the 120 or so pilgrims last night and the 90 from the night before. The alberque charges have been about 5 Euros for the past few nights which is great, specially since i dont know how much money is left in my account.
Tonight a meal is provided here for 8 Euros and breakfast for 3E. All washing is done and dried. I can smell the meal cooking in the kitchen and my stomach is crying out for sustenance.
NAJERO TO SANTO DOMINGODE CALZADA
What an amazing day if not torturous. It started of pleasant enough after a not so restful night at the alberque in Najero....dont know why they bothered about the mattress...I could feel the bed boards on my bones. Cooked my first meal here, tortilla potatas with onions with a fresh salad and a bottle full of green olives washed down with vino tinto. Gizzla was very impressed and we lavished every morsel.
I decided on this journey to do a John Brierley recommended route and vowed I wuld never do another one...naturally I got lost following the famous spanish sign posts.....about 4 extra kms on my already longer route. No yellow arrows and not one other pilgrim in sight. I was keen to not do the regular A to B thing but was truly wishing I was at my lowest point. I wanted to see the Cistertian? Abbey at Cana and when I finally saw it I am crying all the way into the Abbey much to the distress of the receptionist there. I sat in the beautiful white sandstone church with the light shining down from above and allowed the faith that has withstood the ages refresh my soul. It was worth it in the end to get there.
The journey beyond that was gruelling ...now in the hot sun...I took the chance of two opportunites to stretch out on the wayside and felt like a tramp of old with my knapsack and feet spayed out on the ground but i didnt care....it felt so good to rest. I finally reached Santo D at 4.p.m. to find the most spectacular Alberque...called the Hilton of the Camino....was indeed like a 5 star hotel and we were greeted by two volunteer Canadians. I was totally exhausted but managed to get to the supermarket and buy some groceries for a simple meal.
Met my first Ausies a group of young guys who invited me to join them to farewell a friend and have a bit of drinkie but I declined but was quite chuffed to be asked. there was a PIlgrim Mass that night at the cathedral but my body had got into rigour mortis so I went to bed instead and had a reasonable sleep.
There have been so many high lights but too many to mention. I lose track of the days and the treasures along the way seem to sink down into my pool of collected memories never to be forgotten.
I decided on this journey to do a John Brierley recommended route and vowed I wuld never do another one...naturally I got lost following the famous spanish sign posts.....about 4 extra kms on my already longer route. No yellow arrows and not one other pilgrim in sight. I was keen to not do the regular A to B thing but was truly wishing I was at my lowest point. I wanted to see the Cistertian? Abbey at Cana and when I finally saw it I am crying all the way into the Abbey much to the distress of the receptionist there. I sat in the beautiful white sandstone church with the light shining down from above and allowed the faith that has withstood the ages refresh my soul. It was worth it in the end to get there.
The journey beyond that was gruelling ...now in the hot sun...I took the chance of two opportunites to stretch out on the wayside and felt like a tramp of old with my knapsack and feet spayed out on the ground but i didnt care....it felt so good to rest. I finally reached Santo D at 4.p.m. to find the most spectacular Alberque...called the Hilton of the Camino....was indeed like a 5 star hotel and we were greeted by two volunteer Canadians. I was totally exhausted but managed to get to the supermarket and buy some groceries for a simple meal.
Met my first Ausies a group of young guys who invited me to join them to farewell a friend and have a bit of drinkie but I declined but was quite chuffed to be asked. there was a PIlgrim Mass that night at the cathedral but my body had got into rigour mortis so I went to bed instead and had a reasonable sleep.
There have been so many high lights but too many to mention. I lose track of the days and the treasures along the way seem to sink down into my pool of collected memories never to be forgotten.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
NAVARETT TO NAJERO (I think!)
Yesterday we left Logronia and walked 13 kms to Navarette....I thought i was going to die.....this was my worst day so far....I was physically and emotionally at the end of my rope.....I barelymade it to the alberque. I threw my stuff on the bottom bunk and collapsed. A Dutch lady came in after me and looked at me and said ...you are younger than me ..would you like the top bunk....I said WHAT!...I am sixty two....She said Oh! OK You are older ...I will go on top bunk....I said Yah! Goot!....For once I was glad for my years...no way would I have got on that top bunk. I slept solid for two hours before I did anything else. I had a great rest and a simple meal of cheese and ham and cup of soup for tea and a back in bed by 7.45.......Up again at 5.30 and on the road at 7 a.m. The hospitalero at the alberque made us all crepes and jam....very nice.
Now I am in Najero and walked 20 kms today. I feel on top of the world. It is a good lesson ro realize that everyday is so different...one day you feel like dying and the next climb mountains. We stopped at a bar on the way (always at the top of a hill) and enjoyed cafe con leche wiht ham bagel and pastrie. A hilarious Frenchman gave his wife a big kiss in the corner of the cafe and I shouted over Hey! what about me and he came running over with arms open wide and gave me a big hug and a kiss on each cheek. I was ready for my next mountain. The comeraderie here is fantastic....today I met a Lithuainian and yesterday a Latvian and an Irishman....such a mixed bunch!! I am still the only Aussie on the road.
A crowd of school kids joined us on the Camino route all shouting Bien Camino to us. the scenery today was outstanding....to much for my little camera to take in.....but it is imprinted in my memory forever.....
This is the region of La Reogia? famous for its wine...the locals say the best in the world.....did I mention the Fountain of Wine I passed earlier last week. A fountain with flowing wine and also water. A young Italina pilgrim filled his water flask with the wine....a got my mug out and had a small drink not wanting to fall asleep on the journey Ha Ha.
Todayd I was about fourth in the queue for the alberque so I have done very well today especially after yesterday. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift....today is now and I am learning to live in the moment.
I have extended my Camino by two weeks since I have not heard of any work to go back to in UK...I hope to make it to Leon and be able to walk the Meseta. It is proving to be quite inexpensive to live..the most I have paid for an alberque so far in 9 Euros....today is donation so I give 5 euros and maybe have a Pilgrim meal tonight for 9 Euros ...three course meal with bottle of vino tinto.....It is very pleasant here with lots of bars and restaurants along a fairly large river. Alberque is basic with 90 beds in one room. I have a guy above me and a huge Amercian guy next to me.....he is 160kgs!!! I will have my ear plugs in tonight for sure!!
Now I am in Najero and walked 20 kms today. I feel on top of the world. It is a good lesson ro realize that everyday is so different...one day you feel like dying and the next climb mountains. We stopped at a bar on the way (always at the top of a hill) and enjoyed cafe con leche wiht ham bagel and pastrie. A hilarious Frenchman gave his wife a big kiss in the corner of the cafe and I shouted over Hey! what about me and he came running over with arms open wide and gave me a big hug and a kiss on each cheek. I was ready for my next mountain. The comeraderie here is fantastic....today I met a Lithuainian and yesterday a Latvian and an Irishman....such a mixed bunch!! I am still the only Aussie on the road.
A crowd of school kids joined us on the Camino route all shouting Bien Camino to us. the scenery today was outstanding....to much for my little camera to take in.....but it is imprinted in my memory forever.....
This is the region of La Reogia? famous for its wine...the locals say the best in the world.....did I mention the Fountain of Wine I passed earlier last week. A fountain with flowing wine and also water. A young Italina pilgrim filled his water flask with the wine....a got my mug out and had a small drink not wanting to fall asleep on the journey Ha Ha.
Todayd I was about fourth in the queue for the alberque so I have done very well today especially after yesterday. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift....today is now and I am learning to live in the moment.
I have extended my Camino by two weeks since I have not heard of any work to go back to in UK...I hope to make it to Leon and be able to walk the Meseta. It is proving to be quite inexpensive to live..the most I have paid for an alberque so far in 9 Euros....today is donation so I give 5 euros and maybe have a Pilgrim meal tonight for 9 Euros ...three course meal with bottle of vino tinto.....It is very pleasant here with lots of bars and restaurants along a fairly large river. Alberque is basic with 90 beds in one room. I have a guy above me and a huge Amercian guy next to me.....he is 160kgs!!! I will have my ear plugs in tonight for sure!!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
At Torres del Rio waiting for bus
Just a few minutes to kill before we head off for the local bus.....it is 20 kms to Logrono but it is our treat day for Gizzla and I...she is 64 so we are very compatible in everyway...Ha Ha. I love my body ...it has been amazing so far and my feet are incredible....my one blister is still healing but has not been a problem. My bones are aching a bit and I am very stiff but so is everyone else so I am no different.
Stayed in a medieval hostel a couple of nights ago on top of a mountain...it was so ancient and so cold. Very basic accomodation but tremendous hospitality from Dutch volunteers...was a special Camino experience.
I get many phylosophical moments along the way with new perspectives on life and what is really important. STanding alone in the middle of nowhere with miles and miles of rolling wheat fields and vineyards and mountains gives you true sense of uniqueness .....run out of time.....
Stayed in a medieval hostel a couple of nights ago on top of a mountain...it was so ancient and so cold. Very basic accomodation but tremendous hospitality from Dutch volunteers...was a special Camino experience.
I get many phylosophical moments along the way with new perspectives on life and what is really important. STanding alone in the middle of nowhere with miles and miles of rolling wheat fields and vineyards and mountains gives you true sense of uniqueness .....run out of time.....
Somewhere in Spain on the way to Logrono
Here I am today in Torres del Rio....the days are blurring in to each other.....have walked 18 kms yesterday and 20 today...think of getting a bus into Logrono tomorrow and rest up. Lastnight was spent on top of a mountain and I didnt think I would make it up there. The first alberque was very basic with just mattresses on the floor but I didnt care...i just want a place to rest my head....but my new German friend Gizzla said NO...we would look a the next one up another 20 steps further up the village....pant pant!!! It turned out to be a alberque run by volunteer Dutch Penteclostal Christians so I felt really at home. I found a song book and started singing some of the songs and was soon joined by Gizzla and another German lady and we each sang the songs in our own language. After a beautiful dinner that evening about 12 of us joined together for a meditationa and scripture reading and we all sang Amazing Grace in our own languages....about 5 nations represented....a very special moment. I thanked our host this morning for a beautiful stay and he thanked me for my singing which I thought quite amusing ....so wone has ever thanked me for my singing before.
The journed today was quite easy in comparison to other days and the scenery was spectacular...rolling young fields of wheat set in the midst of vineyards with a mountainous backdrop and blue skies. Gizzla and walk at the same pace...slooooow! so it is good company for each other. I have walked many days on my own and it has been good but it is also good to have a companion who looks out for you.
Time is up....love you all.
The journed today was quite easy in comparison to other days and the scenery was spectacular...rolling young fields of wheat set in the midst of vineyards with a mountainous backdrop and blue skies. Gizzla and walk at the same pace...slooooow! so it is good company for each other. I have walked many days on my own and it has been good but it is also good to have a companion who looks out for you.
Time is up....love you all.
Friday, May 14, 2010
OBANOS TO LORCA
The day started off warm and sunny and I left the village with a guy from Korea called Hun who told me he was 71....he was very sweet and carried a very basic pack held together withsafety pins cause his zip had broken...had none of the hi tech equipment that most of us seem to think is so essential. The scenery is marvellous passing through vineyards and olive groves with mountains in back drop and lush green pastures and farmland. The early spring red poppies are sprinkled along the way with yellow canola flowers. Some hard walking up and down hills and rocky and i mean rocky path ways. It makes the walking very slow. 3kms can take an hour and a half so you cant really judge how far you will travel ...its just a case of keep going. Meeting many wonder ful people...so far have met Danish, Finish, Germans, French, Koreans and Spanish. Waved to a couple of Aussies at Ronscavelles but not met any on the walk as such, no Kiwis or English. I have my Aussie flag hanging over the side of my back pack and many people ask if I have come from Australia....I say Yes...and they go WOWª...maybe they think I walked here from Aus Ha Ha...anyway they love the Aussies.
One of my refections today was stopping at a little cemetry along the way on the side of a hill. I was looking at all the gravestones and a little prayer seemed to come up from within....Give God your soul to keep for you too one day will beside me sleep.....dont know where that came from....it is odd what comes up.
So here I am at Lorca and staying at an absolutely fabulous alberque....such a warm welcome and great facilities with bar and restaurant downstairs....was going to have a massage but the masseur wasnt able to do it....sad!!
Travelled 15 kms today...it was enough with blister and all. Am starting to realize that my two weeks will not be enough to get me to Burgos and back to UK so if I dont get any work between not and Tuesday next week I will keep going and maybe finish at Leon and finish the Camino to Santiago later this year before I go back hme....we shall see. It is dinner time now...Perigrinos menu 9 Euros with vino tinto....tomorrow is another day on the Camino to Santiago....
One of my refections today was stopping at a little cemetry along the way on the side of a hill. I was looking at all the gravestones and a little prayer seemed to come up from within....Give God your soul to keep for you too one day will beside me sleep.....dont know where that came from....it is odd what comes up.
So here I am at Lorca and staying at an absolutely fabulous alberque....such a warm welcome and great facilities with bar and restaurant downstairs....was going to have a massage but the masseur wasnt able to do it....sad!!
Travelled 15 kms today...it was enough with blister and all. Am starting to realize that my two weeks will not be enough to get me to Burgos and back to UK so if I dont get any work between not and Tuesday next week I will keep going and maybe finish at Leon and finish the Camino to Santiago later this year before I go back hme....we shall see. It is dinner time now...Perigrinos menu 9 Euros with vino tinto....tomorrow is another day on the Camino to Santiago....
CIZUR MINOR TO OBANAS
Where to start....so much to say...I am full of words....Two days since last post. Travelled 17 kms yesterday and was totally exhausted by the end of it...never felt so tired. The day was brutal...first of all got my first blister.
Had only travelled 500 mts from alberque when I felt something odd with my second toe...thought I,d better check it quick as maybe my sock wasnt right...anyways it seemed to be OK so kept going...3 kms on thougth I,d bette chek again ...was raining by now and windy...but a bench under a tree appeared and i took the chance to look at my foot ...what a performance in the rain....well there it was the biggest blister....on with the second skin...thank you Thelma and a foam toe protector and i kept going ...seemed to be OK....to date it is still there but not causing major probs. Climbed my first mountain after the Pyrenees called Alto del Perdon ¿The Mountain of Forgiveness? It was a brutal climb but jus twhen you think you cant go another step we reached the top. There was a prayer stone thingo with a big step up to it but I didnt have the strength to get up there so I threw my prayers stones up into it.....sorry guys, Sue, Rex, Bernie and John....your stones are on the top of a mountain forever. Finally made it to Obanos a couple of kms short of where I would have liked to stay but the energy just wanst there. Stayed at an OK alberque with a log fire....it was freezing there....never imagined it would be that cold. Was too cold and stiff to go to a restaurant so had instant soup made in microwave and a small galss of vino tinto shared by one of the other pilgrims. The comeraderie is just wonderful. Slept quite well with no night noises nearby. Thought I,d lost my camera next morning after i,d packed all my back pack up was so upset with myself and as a last minute effort i looked under the bed and there it was ....such a relief.....
Had only travelled 500 mts from alberque when I felt something odd with my second toe...thought I,d better check it quick as maybe my sock wasnt right...anyways it seemed to be OK so kept going...3 kms on thougth I,d bette chek again ...was raining by now and windy...but a bench under a tree appeared and i took the chance to look at my foot ...what a performance in the rain....well there it was the biggest blister....on with the second skin...thank you Thelma and a foam toe protector and i kept going ...seemed to be OK....to date it is still there but not causing major probs. Climbed my first mountain after the Pyrenees called Alto del Perdon ¿The Mountain of Forgiveness? It was a brutal climb but jus twhen you think you cant go another step we reached the top. There was a prayer stone thingo with a big step up to it but I didnt have the strength to get up there so I threw my prayers stones up into it.....sorry guys, Sue, Rex, Bernie and John....your stones are on the top of a mountain forever. Finally made it to Obanos a couple of kms short of where I would have liked to stay but the energy just wanst there. Stayed at an OK alberque with a log fire....it was freezing there....never imagined it would be that cold. Was too cold and stiff to go to a restaurant so had instant soup made in microwave and a small galss of vino tinto shared by one of the other pilgrims. The comeraderie is just wonderful. Slept quite well with no night noises nearby. Thought I,d lost my camera next morning after i,d packed all my back pack up was so upset with myself and as a last minute effort i looked under the bed and there it was ....such a relief.....
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Ziburi to Pamplona
I have found this internet place by chance in the funny little streets here in Pamplona....not having any luck gettig into my emails though. Welll where to start. What a day yesterday turned out to be. Every day is a mystery in that I wonder how I get to the end of it. Have to confess I got a bus with two others from Ziburi to Larossa?...one of the ladies damaged her knee on the way down to Ronscavellas...so a good thing i got taxi I think! She could only walk very slowly so we walked together ´doucement´slowly to Pamplona together. Martine is my age and French with little English so our conversation was qute interesting with my school French but we did well. The walk to Pamplona was not exactly a walk in the park quite exacting and more mud and I took my second tumble down a slippery slope and wore a mud medal on my butt all the way to the city. WE were boot lace deep in mud in places.
We finally hit Pamplona and got lost....coudnt find the alberque.....dont ask a Spaniard the way to anywhere....I am sure we were sent on a wild goose chase which wasnt very pleasant for Martine wthe her gammy knee. Finally a Spanish angel rescued us and led us to the door of the monastery where we stayed the night. The brothers there took care of Martine and made us very welcome. This morning she was in a worse way so they were going to take her to a doctor. I stayed with her for a while and then we said farewell.
I amazingly navigated my way through the outskirts of the city here and followed the little yellow arrows...they are a welcome sight and you just see them just at the right moment when you think you are lost again.
I am starting to get withdrawal syptoms for the English language...someone to have a good yack with. I am not planning on going very far today but I said that yesterday and it was still five o clock before we rocked up to the alberque. Hopefully tonight I will meet my stockbroker freind from USA at the next alberque at Cizur Menor. She used to have a stockbroking business in the twin towers when the 7/11 happened. It turned her life up side down.....hence the Camino for her. WE had some good laughs together yesterday.
Gee its good to laugh...I feel I havent had such a good laugh for ages. This whole walk is so crazy but I am loving every minute of it. I have two pairs of socks hanging on the side of my backpack drying and walking through this city and I couldnt care less ha Ha.
Well better go .....love to all....Oh! I have been leaving little prayers stones at all the crosses along the way for my sick and injured friends. You are all in my prayers. Ultreya e suseya! Onward and Upward to Santiago!
We finally hit Pamplona and got lost....coudnt find the alberque.....dont ask a Spaniard the way to anywhere....I am sure we were sent on a wild goose chase which wasnt very pleasant for Martine wthe her gammy knee. Finally a Spanish angel rescued us and led us to the door of the monastery where we stayed the night. The brothers there took care of Martine and made us very welcome. This morning she was in a worse way so they were going to take her to a doctor. I stayed with her for a while and then we said farewell.
I amazingly navigated my way through the outskirts of the city here and followed the little yellow arrows...they are a welcome sight and you just see them just at the right moment when you think you are lost again.
I am starting to get withdrawal syptoms for the English language...someone to have a good yack with. I am not planning on going very far today but I said that yesterday and it was still five o clock before we rocked up to the alberque. Hopefully tonight I will meet my stockbroker freind from USA at the next alberque at Cizur Menor. She used to have a stockbroking business in the twin towers when the 7/11 happened. It turned her life up side down.....hence the Camino for her. WE had some good laughs together yesterday.
Gee its good to laugh...I feel I havent had such a good laugh for ages. This whole walk is so crazy but I am loving every minute of it. I have two pairs of socks hanging on the side of my backpack drying and walking through this city and I couldnt care less ha Ha.
Well better go .....love to all....Oh! I have been leaving little prayers stones at all the crosses along the way for my sick and injured friends. You are all in my prayers. Ultreya e suseya! Onward and Upward to Santiago!
Monday, May 10, 2010
Ronsevellas to Zeburi - 20 kms
This has been the most exhausting day but feel so proud that I managed to walk 20 kms. I thank god for my walking pole, my wonderful new boots and my beautiful feet....I would kiss them if I could reach that far. But I am so weary now and sooooo stiff.
Am at the municipal hostel with a bunch of Asian people so not much sharing tonight though I have met a lovely lady from USA and a French lady who damaged her knee going down into Ronscavellas. I have lost Irene and Magda and left them way back up the road. The walk was unbelievably tough....mud, mud, and more mud. I walked up the middle of streams and had my first fall navigating down a slippery slope. A gallant Frenchman happened to pass by and helped me up so that was worth it ....Ha ha!!
Will blog as can.....this experience is not to be missed.
St Jean Pied de Pont to Ronscevellas
There is so much to say and not enough time or words to express the kaleidoscope of emotions I have felt since beginning my Camino. St Jean Pied de Pont was delightful and I had a very comfortable night in a hotel and actually slept. The second night a great stay at L´Ësprit du Chemin...great people and great hospitality. I cried my first Camino tears as I was hugged off on my journey.First stop was Orisson 8 kms up and the climb was actually not as difficult as I imagined it would be. The panoramic views were breathtaking and as I turned to go up the last hairpin bend I looked over to my left and thought I was going to fall off the end of the world. I cried my second Camino tears here.
Received a warm welcome at Orisson and shared a lovely meal with Germans, French and Spanish. Was grateful for new Canadian friends so we could at least communicate with each other.
Hospitalier said it was OK to go up over mountain even though there was still some snow and he would guide us over...so very exciting for us all.
Had a great night at Ronscevellas and slept with 120 people from 11 nations in a monastery ...a very surreal experience and not to be missed. Went to the Pilgrims Mass and received the pilgrim blessing which was very moving...more tears!
Friday, May 7, 2010
ST JEAN PIED DE PONT....HERE AT LAST!
Hi all this is very quick....key board here is strange......all well...but snow on the top of mountain...will not be be able to climb over tomorrow....but hope to get half way. So thrilled to be here...it is beautiful here....met two lovely ladies from Canada who i will walk with tomorrow met lady from Korea with back pack 11 kgs she just decided to do this 2 weeks ago.......eeeek!!Love you all
Jo
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