Monte del Gozo to Santiago de Compostella 5 kms Day 8

First sight of Cathedral spires

It is with a great sense of awe and thankfulness that I can finally say 'I am here, I made it'. I wondered how I would feel when I reached the Cathedral, what emotions would be touched, if any, and all I can say, magnificent as the Cathedral is, the Camino is really all about the journey and the little gems of self discovery you pick up along the Way! I did however express tears of relief and wonder that I had actually made it when the cathedral spires suddenly appeared before me.

It was just as exciting going to the pilgrim office along with all the other pilgrims to get our Compostellas,a certificate to state I had walked the Camino and to see all the people who had walked with me and passed me and encouraged me along the Way including the Dutchmen and Bradford Ruth. Ruth broke down in tears when she went for her certificate and no-one was more surprised than she.

Henk and Otto,  the lovely Dutchmen

The pilgrim mass was beautiful and the Cathedral was full. They read out all the nations represented at the service and I lost count of how many.

We celebrated Ruth's birthday with a meal at the Seminario Mayor next to the Cathedral now transformed into a very elegant hostel and very reasonable for the night. Recommended for prospective pilgrims but you may have to book ahead!

So, has all the agony been worth it? Yes a thousand times, yes!

It is good to remember that a pilgrimage is not a holiday for leisure and pleasure but a journey with a destination and spiritual purpose. I reached my destination but my life's journey in this world goes on.

Argo O Pino to Monte del Gozo 15.5 kms day 7

So, here I am on the eve of entering Santiago de Compostela. Tomorrow it is an easy 5 Kms walk into the city. Monte Gozo alberque is situated on an elevated site overlooking the city, it says you can see the spires of the cathedral in the distance but I haven't discovered that yet. It has accommodation for 500 during the peak season. It is modern and comfortable with supermarket and restaurant. I am waiting for the restaurant to open at 8 pm! The Spanish eat late!

It was a fantastic last night to be reunited with Bradford Ruth at the alberque and we exchanged the stories and adventures of our walks over the past few days. We bumped into each other in the supermarket and squealed with delight at seeing each other again. This is a common reaction when anyone unexpectedly meets a fellow pilgrim again. Ruth is doing the Camino to mark her 50th birthday so we have arranged to meet tomorrow outside the cathedral and go and celebrate.
I was amazed also to see the Dutchmen, Henk and Otto, right at the reception door as I entered the alberque when I arrived at 1.15 pm today. I thought I wouldn't be seeing them again. More squeals of delight all round with hugs and European kisses on each cheek.

It was a very hard walk for me today. This last part of the walk is mostly up hill but very pleasant never the less through eucalyptus forests and quiet woodland.
There are literally crowds of pilgrims on this last stretch, many just doing a one day walk in to the city. They practically galloped past me as I trudged along. Yet despite the crowds, as I approached Mr Gonza there was not one other pilgrim in sight for two kilometers, either before me or behind me. I felt like I was the only poor pilgrim on the entire Camino and the only one diverting to this alberque.

It was probably the impact of feeling totally exhausted and barely managing to put one foot in front of the other, compounded with the realization of being so close to the end of the journey, that I found it difficult to suppress deep emotions that were squirting out of me like a burst water main.

I try not to analyze these feelings any more but the picture of a knotted ball of wool unravelling inside of me seemed to fit the feelings.

When I arrived today apart from the Dutchmen there were a group of Koreans in front of me and a guy from Brazil behind me. the guy who booked us in was Manuel and a bit of a clown making us all feel welcome. i think he felt sorry for me and gave me the room nearest to the bathroom. I was so tired and exhausted I barely managed to put the disposable bottom sheet on the bed before collapsing onto it. With the help of a very strong painkiller I stayed put for three hours.

Today was the first day I used my rain jacket. It was very light rain and the temperature has dropped alot but was perfect for walking up hill. I am now feeling well rested and peaceful and very hungry! The restaurant is open soon!

Tomorrow is the big day!

Arzua to Arca O Pino 19 kms Day 7

By the grace of God and two Red Bulls I made it today to Azuza de Pedroza, 19 kms. I had planned to stay at Santa Irene but it was only 3 Kms to the next alberque and main town. Even so it was a long 3 Kms and I am aching and I think my big toe is going to drop off ha ha! It is taped up with Compeed. I struggled into the alberque with a Frenchman who was also dragging his feet. We have deep empathy for each other lol.

I am staying at the Azuza Municiple alberque E5 and quite basic and also quite loud with several exuberant youths. The Frenchman was also not very impressed!

So after my groaning last night about eating alone I had the most enjoyable time with the Dutch gentleman and his son. The father did not speak English but the son spoke it very well and translated my part of the conversation. I shared the fond memories I have of visiting Holland as a young girl with my Mum and Dad. The father was very interested in my recollections of the little farm house my mother grew up in and how she slept in a cupboard in the wall. He remembered that as a child too having grown up in a very poor family. They knew the village where she was born and strangely it stirred some hidden emotions in me. It was a special time sharing life with these two Dutchmen and I felt a kindred spirit with them.

To close the evening the restaurant owner invited us to join in with a popular Galicia tradition called Queimada. I don't know how to describe it but traditionally it is a family kind of celebration around a drink made out of coffee beans, lemon, sugar and a liqueur? called Aguardiente de Orujo. It is 40% proof. When you stir it, it gradually bursts into a flame getting stronger and stronger. Then someone reads a long story which was in Spanish and I didn't understand a word but then everyone was offered a hot drink from the bowl. A bit like a hot toddy. Was a special time sharing a local Spanish tradition with other pilgrims and Spanish locals. There is a photo with the Dutch father who just turned 70 and very fit with it too!

Today was a relatively easy walk and mostly flat. Good companionship along the way with Irish Mary, American Karen and the Frenchman who is still nameless at this stage.

A time to reflect at a memorial for a pilgrim who died on the walk only one day from his earthly destination. It reminds me how fragile and temporary this journey on earth is.

Every one is now full of anticipation on reaching Santiago tomorrow. It is still another 20 kms to go so I am not expecting to get there tomorrow. I will walk a shorter distance and take it easy to walk in on Saturday. I had hoped to go to Finisterre ( worlds end as it was known to the pilgrims of the Middle Ages and the sea route home for them) but time may not permit!

Hopefully I will have sufficient strength to go to the restaurant up the road. I certainly don't have the strength to cook my own tonight!

Melide to Arzua 14.1 kms Day 6

What a joy to get to the alberque today at Arzua. A short day with only 14.1 Kms but much of it up hill! Beautiful green countryside, and some excellent rest stops. I thought I had tended my feet carefully today, stopping whenever I felt a hot spot, slamming Compeed on little toe but no blisters in sight. When I took my socks off tonight I was horrified to see two blister bubbles on the end of my toes. One on each foot! How did that happen? There were quite a few steep downhill stretches so maybe my toes rubbed too much on my boots though I never felt any problems. Anyway, I have slammed some more Compeed on each one so hope they hold out. Two more days of walking to go!

The Municiple alberque with 48 beds here is very pleasant tonight and only E5. It was full by 5 pm! They have arranged the dormitory with bunk beds pushed together to make doubles. I find I am sleeping alongside a lovely elderly Dutch gentleman who is now very concerned about his snoring!! What was the girl at the desk thinking! Oh well it all adds to the colour of the journey! I reassured him I have some well tested ear plugs!! I just hope I don't have another nightmare yelling out in the night. I couldn't bare it! There's 32 pilgrims in this dorm!

So, today was a good day of walking. My energy levels seem to be back to normal. I bought another energy drink and coffee this morning. Red Bull, full of good things!
Saw my first stork's nest but no storkies around. May be too early in the season! It pays to keep looking up or I would have missed it.

The hour approaches to go out and find a restaurant. Though I enjoy the solitude of the journey each day it would be so nice to share the evening with a close companion and share the highlights of the day with a glass of vino tinto. It is interesting that there are not too many people traveling solo or maybe they have linked into other groups. Maybe I just feel a little alone!

Palas de Rei to Melide 15.3 Kms Day 5

A good stay at Palas de Rei at the Buen Camino Alberque. Doesnt look much from the outside but was very clean with good facilities. A bar and restaurant downstairs. My Spanish room companions, Carlos and Francisco, were cycling today to Santiago and had already biked 600 Kms in seven days. My other male companion was from Seattle and had walked from St Jean Pied de Pont . With only the last 50 Kms to go to Santiago he said he was feeling bitter sweet about finishing it. They say the worst thing about the Camino is going home!

So, today was a strange day. It started off all muddled. I had walked about 300 meters down hill on the way out of town when I realized I had left my walking pole behind! Walking back up that hill was not a good way to start the day!! I felt exhausted before I had even started. In fact my energy level was at zero all morning. I think perhaps my body salt levels may be depleted as I have perspired buckets over the past few days!

The track this morning was a real adventure crossing streams, balancing on stepping stones and sliding in the mud. Lots of uphill climbing too! Everyone passes me along the way. I am so slow! But everyone is so friendly and cheer you along! I stop often to let people past. I don't mind being the lambs tail at all as I enjoy the solitude of having no-one in front of me or behind me.

Quite a number of Irish pilgrims today. Stopped at a popular cafe and had a desperately needed coffee and energy drink. Felt so much better after that!

I have started buying my breakfast and lunch the night before as you don't always know how far you have to walk to the next cafe. A large bread roll and a packet of cheese slices seems to work, with an apple and banana. Lasts all day. A pilgrim meal is usually about E10 and quite good value except the main course is always served with potato chips and can be a bit greasy. Galicia soup is my favorite so far.

Met one odd person today walking in the opposite direction (maybe doing the Camino in reverse) very bedraggled with long hair and a poor Labrador following meekly behind with shoes on! Looked really weired! Probably to protect his paws from blisters! Don't be surprised about anything on the Camino!

I have been blessed with blankets at the last two Alberque but none tonight. Staying at the Melide Municiple alberque. Only E5 with good facilities but no blankets. I think it is mainly the private alberques that provide them but you pay more. So hoping I will be warm enough. It is still quite cool through the night.

Gonza to Palas de Rei 16.5 Kms Day 4

Enjoyed the company of Bradford Ruth last night and shared the evening meal together. Stayed at a private hostel and was very comfortable (Casa Garcia) with a good restaurant attached. Was exhausted when I arrived. Thought I'd never get there! Surprisingly it was three quarters full by the end of the evening considering it is only April. I think it pays to arrive at destination by about 3 pm to ensure a bed and not end up with a top bunk!!

Made very good timing today with a couple of pit stops and a foot check. Slammed a second compede plaster on a toe. My boots are very comfortable but I have learned to take action the minute I feel a hot spot on my feet.

Walked part way with Bradford Ruth but she has gone to a different alberque tonight so may not meet again. Such is the Camino.

I am particularly drawn to the ancient miles stones and crucifixes along the Way. It reminds me of the millions of pilgrims over the centuries who have walked this same path many seeking some sense of salvation and answers to life's ultimate questions. Will this lost Christian also find the answers she seeks?

Am presently staying at an alberque in town and am on the third floor. I am sharing a four bed room with two macho Spanish cyclists. An interesting experience!

Beautiful scenery looking across green valleys and walking through more forest and woodland. Really cold first thing in morning but warms up by about 11 am.

Some pasta for tea tonight and bed by 9 pm!!

Ferreiros to Gonzar 17.5 Kms Day 3

What an eventful day though it started off on an interesting note. I was in the ladies brushing my teeth and the German lady who was in the next bunk said to me with a concerned voice " last night you had a bad dream and were shouting 'Somebody help me, please help me'"! I imagine I woke up the whole dormitory. The poor German lady thought I was being murdered in my bed! How embarrassing! It is a recurring dream I have had for years. I couldn't remember a thing about it thus morning! Maybe I should go see a psychiatrist lol!

So, had a lonesome walk on my own for the next part of the journey. Very misty, a bit eerie when walking alone. I had walked about 4 Kms when out of the mist appeared this little elderly man with a walking cane. He asked me where I came from and seemed very impressed when I told him Australia. I was trying to figure out what he was doing there in the middle of nowhere. He asked if I wanted coffee and of course I said yes immediately regretting my eagerness! He told me to follow him to coffee. Now I m thinking I am being abducted never to be seen again. The upshot was he was trying to direct pilgrims to his alberque for breakfast. So I ended up having coffee and toast with an English lady from Bradford who was sitting at the bar practicing her Spanish to the batman! It's really weird how you get caught up in these obscure scenarios!

I was headed for Portomarin and then Gonzar. The first part was easy and downhill. Not far before Portomarin was a little hamlet with a sign up on the wall. Casa Susana ( Ausie Sheila)! So I knocked on her door to say hallo from Aus! She was pleased to see me and told the story of doing the Camino a few years ago and ended up buying this little run down house which she has been restoring ever since the Bradford pilgrim showed up by then and she showed us around. Very quaint and ancient downstairs but beautiful and bright upstairs! What an inspiration!! So Ausie future pilgrims call by and say hallo to Susana! You will be welcome!

The sun finally came out round about lunch time and grabbing a bottle of shampoo at the supermarket and enjoying a Skype phone call from my sister in Aus I
Hit the track again. This time it was all up hill and another 9 Kms which sounds reasonable but was quite grueling! I barely made it to the alberque at Gonza.

So, all in all, a good day walking through some lovely woodland and forests.